Building a Jewellery bench - Custom DIY

As I make more sci-fi, unique and quirky jewellery, I need a dedicated jewellers workbench - So I decided to make my own.

Why make a custom DIY Jewelers workbench?

I have a specific location where I would like to make jewellery, and it's a bit tricky
Being a Virgo, my workbench has to be just perfect - for me
It needs to fit in with the look and feel of the rest of the house
The best way to learn a new skill like carpentry, is to jump right in

On that last point, it is my FIRST carpentry project ever - so be gentle with me in the comments. My carpentry skills improved a few thousand percent during this project, as did the number of power-tools I owned. and you can never have enough excuses to buy power-tools. Mwahahaha.

The first step in making a jewellery bench is to do some research.

The big question on my mind was: What the hell is a jewellers bench supposed to look like? I spent a day or two searching on Google for images of workbenches and how-to guides. This gave me enough basic background, and also taught me the 'lingo' so I knew that the wooden sticky-outy thing is actually called a bench peg.

Now I (sort of) knew what I was talking about, I then went out to many jewellery shops and asked if I could come into their workshop and look at their benches. After explaining that I was designing jewellery, and about to embark on building my own workbench, they were very happy to let me look around.

Interviewing professional Jewellers, i asked questions like:

How long have you been in the jewellery industry
Where did you do your training
What do you love about being a jeweller
What do you wish you could change about your jewellers bench
What do you like most about your bench
What modifications have you made to the workbench.

They were all very open and gave me excellent hints and tips on what to do - let me take measurements, photos... People who are passionate about what they do are usually the experts in their field, and most likely to gush with valuable knowledge and ideas.

The keys to success in any project you are about to embark on: Do research, interview the experts and remember, people LOVE to talk about themselves.

I have used this technique more times than I can count in my years as a business coach. It is amazing and so much fun.

Armed with amazing ideas and a tape measure, I was off to the local hardware store...

So now armed with amazing ideas and a tape measure, I was off to the local hardware store to look around and see what materials would be most suitable. With most of my artwork this is a stage where I get more ideas and virtually build the project in question in my head. I have never been one for drawing things out on paper apart from a few rough measurements. Being able to build things in my mind step by step, I can see the correct order to do things so I don't paint myself into a corner. If I do see a design issue, I just mentally take the project apart back to that point and redesign it. This skill served me well in designing and fault finding computer networks over my 15 years in the computer industry.

Please enjoy from this point the pictorial journal of the build, with lots of notes, and if you feel inclined to build your own jewellers bench, feel free to use my ideas or ask any questions you like.

...All images can be clicked to enlarge...

This is the area where I wanted to build the jewellery bench

It needed to be out of the way, so I chose the right-most window section. The middle section is where I usually do my electronics and soldering work for my art and sculpture.
There are two problems I would need to sort out. Firstly the poor light in this area. It is either so bright coming in the window you can't see what you are doing, or it is too dark as the ceiling light is dim and also hangs behind where I sit, so I am always casting a shadow on my work. The second problem is that the existing bench is quite high and spans the length of the wall to the point where it is built in each end. I do not wish to cut into it. The jewellers bench I build will need to be "built in" and also removable without a trace.

Best wood to use for benchtop?

I bought a solid pine door from the hardware store (on the left in photo) and also had a hardwood benchtop (to the right) that had been removed when I remodeled the kitchen. After weighing up the pros and cons of each, I decided while the hardwood benchtop would prove to be more durable, it was not quite deep enough and had developed a large crack in the middle after being left outside in the elements for over a year - so time to start measuring up the pine.

My father, James Dolan, had me memorise an important saying when I was young.

"Measure twice, cut once"

I have also learnt that you can cut something shorter but not longer, so I measure MANY times, and always err on the side of cutting a bit larger than I need. Later during this project, after building up my confidence, I started cutting the CORRECT size the first time. It is a lot quicker and beats the hell out of having to plain or file every second thing down to size. I also discovered the joy of wood filler, so even if I did screw up, and cut something a bit small, it was not a total disaster...

Eeek... the first cut, no turning back now!

The basic shape starts to form - and I keep in mind that I will need to relocate that powerpoint. My jewellers interviews gave me some good advice on the actual bench top height.

The fun and challenge of mudbrick walls

The mudbrick walls in my house look fantastic, but are a real challenge if you want something to fit flush up against them. Solution, make a cardboard template of the wall profile, and cut to that... Takes a while to do this but looks outstanding in the end, and you don't have to worry about tools and things rolling off the side of the bench into a mini black hole.

Planning the arc and bench pin area

Next step is to plan out the arc for the jewellery work area and bench pin. When I was interviewing jewellers, the depth and width of the arc was a good topic for debate. I weighed up all the pros and cons from the discussions I had, and made my choice. Keeping in mind the "measure twice, cut once" rule. Even though, I did need to modify this later...

The next step was to build a base for the bench and give it some decent structural integrity. At this point I could start on draws etc, as I knew the width of the workbench would not change due to wobbles. I used the plastic 'tongue' from tongue and groove wood panels as runners for the draws. They work fantastic, and also can be screwed in a bit 'bunched up' to provide some spring to grip the draws.

Also a great time to have a beer. Thirsty work this carpentry! Don't you love my Family Guy stubbie holder?

Up to now I had been using a friends circular saw. The teeth were damaged, and I think the bearings were shot - It was a struggle to even hold the thing, let alone cut a straight line due to the intense vibrations when it was turned on. So off to the hardware store to buy my own saw. Being a gadget freak, I chose the saw with a laser pointer. It was amazing, this new saw cut through wood like a hot knife through butter.
...and dude, my circular saw has frickin' lasers! Pew! Pew!

Added a "back" to the bench to stop things getting pushed through the glass window behind. I also started on the scraps tray. Much better quality than the other three draws - Really starting to get the hang of this carpentry lark...

Jewellery design needs good lighting...

More intentional wobbly cuts to match the mudbricks. I am getting bloody good at doing these... (it's still a pain in the ass to do though!)

This part will form a box to mount a powerpoint above the bench. There will also be a switch for the light that will be installed above the bench.
You can see where I used my circular saw to carve out a channel for the wiring - fun but I think it could be an excuse to buy a router too...

I have also mounted a powerboard under the bench.

Jewellers tool shelf and anvil

Building the final slide out shelf, and Yep, I have been back to the hardware store and purchased a router.
Unfortunately I could not find one with lasers. Sad
I can not begin to express how much fun a router is... I had never used a router before. I started with a little practice, re-cutting the wiring channels as those areas are hidden from view so no big deal if I made a mess. When I had got the hang of the router, I routed out a section for a metal plate jewellers anvil to go at the bottom that can be used for hammering metal etc.

I was very impressed with the way the last slide-out shelf turned out - feeling very comfortable with carpentry now...

As I mentioned earlier, I had to change the angle of the "arc" cutout for the bench pin as I had not really allowed enough elbow room on the left. Once modified I could then mount the bench pin in the middle of the jewellers bench. This area was routed out to allow for a a 6mm steel plate. It would help anchor the bench pin and also give another area for hammering, heating etc without damaging the working surface. I have also added a strip of wood on the left and the back, again to prevent things rolling off and running away.
The sanding and staining process has also begun.

Securing the bench pin

While drilling out the holes in the steel plate, I snapped about three drill bits. I welded one of these onto a bolt to form a 'T' handle, and also welded a corresponding nut to a small steel plate. This will be the mounting method for the bench pin. As you can see I have routed out a hole for this, so when the screw is turned, the bolt pushes up against the bench pin, and pushes the pin into the metal plate above, thus wedging it in place. The red paint is just to coat the steel so it will not go rusty. ...and I had more red paint than any other spare...

Protecting the jewellers bench & other finishing touches

Everything gets two coats of varnish over the wood stain. This will give a professional finish and also drastically improve the strength and durability of the benchtop.

Next was to build a footrest. This was needed as I could not change the height of the existing bench that the jewellers bench was sitting on top of. And it was much too high.. Now I have the right height stool, and my legs are not hanging in the air. The footrest has a notch so that the stool can be pushed all the way under the jewellers workbench when not in use.

A few finishing touches - like a pliers rack. Another revelation that came out of my jewellers interviews was that while almost everyone used a piece of coat hanger wire for hanging their pliers, they ALL complained how it gets tangled in the springs of their tools.
To prevent this happening to me, I used a 2cm wide strip of steel. I welded it up and slapped on a coat of black paint for protection. Perfect!

Let there be light!

...and finally to finish mounting my light above the jewellers bench. Ta-dah!

Well, That is about it for now. No doubt there will be more modifications to come as needs become apparent through use. So far it has met all the objectives and requirements I had.

It was also lots of fun to make, and a great excuse to buy a few more powertools...

You can never have enough powertools...
...or frickin' lasers... Mwahahaha! Evil or Very Mad

Many thanks to Ruby Tuesday Jewellery, Warrandyte and Magenta Creative Jewellery , Eltham for several visits and lots of questions about their jewellery benches, work areas and the jewellery industry in general.

If you have any questions, or would like any advice for your own jewellers bench if you decide to make one, feel free to leave a comment!

Tags: Jewellery Mixed Media

Comments (6)

6 Tuesday, 29 November 2011 02:45

Ben

Thank you for sharing this, its amazing helpful. One question I had was how easy it is to find a solid pine door? I have called some timber merchants and have been told that most actually are not 100% solid, so you can't cut into them without the door collapsing. Can you offer any advice?

Tuesday, 29 November 2011 12:20

Martin Dolan

Hey Ben,
Well, if you are in Australia, try Bunnings. That's where I got mine. Bunnings is a big general hardware chain.
internal doors are usually hollow, but external doors are generally solid.
When I say "solid pine" door its not one piece of timber, but actually laminated.
- so lots of smaller bits about 15cm x 5cm x 5cm - which is good, as it means it wont warp etc.

Hope this helps, Warmly, Matry

5 Saturday, 06 August 2011 14:50

kathy

hi, very nice unit, I thought I was going to have a hard time finding a bench that I could put in that would look nice- yours is great. I wonder if I could ask you if you have done a closet for materials as well? thank you for publishing this, Kathy

4 Saturday, 05 February 2011 07:44

Sue

I was wondering if you can give me any advice on the arc size, shape..I am making a top for mine and was going to make a smaller arc in the center as it is a teacher's desk size..but now seeing the large arc open shape of yours i am wondering if that is ok

Saturday, 05 February 2011 11:44

Martin Dolan

Hi Sue,
The first piece of advice I would give is that you can always make the arc in your jewellery bench bigger, but you can't easily make it smaller Smile

As you probably read, the first cut out I made was a little cramped - so I made it larger. Even though it was about twice the size of the cut outs at school.
Not knowing the size of your bench (I am imagining that it is about the size of the ones at school) I would say that you want to have enough elbow room, but also have enough room on the bench top so that you can put things. If for example you are using a torch, you want enough room for your heat proof brick etc. and a bit of clearance for the flame.

So if you are going to experiment a bit, make it on the smaller side if you are not sure. Keep in mind too that cutting out too much might have an effect on the core strength of your bench top.

The size I went for was about 75cm wide and 30 or so deep... That way I could have a 'flat part' at the back of the arc where the peg and the steel plate is - mainly because cutting an arc in a steel plate would be more trouble than its worth!

Perhaps draw the arc on your jewellery bench top in pencil, including the 'peg' and then get one of your bigger files and ask your self
'If I was using this file would there be enough room between the peg and the side of the arc? or would the bench top get in the way?"

I hope this helps.
Feel free to ask more questions if you need Very Happy

Warmly, Marty

3 Monday, 09 August 2010 05:02

James Allen

Hi there,

Very well executed! I am about to embark on making a bench for myself and this will be very helpfull for reference. My question is, do you regret using Pine for the top, I am thinking that a hard wood such as oak might be better but i'm on a budget and pine would be so much cheaper.

Monday, 09 August 2010 08:38

Martin Dolan

No problems what so ever with the pine. I know pine is a softer wood, however I have that metal plate on top if I want to whack away at something, and when using the torch it is always on heat resistant blocks....
The bench will get marks on it over time (added character)
I think the advantage of pine is that:
- The piece I used is laminated (made up of lots of shorter sections - which you can see in one of the photos) so that it will never warp.
- I was actually a thick pine door so its DEAD FLAT
- Price Wink

As you pointed out...
- As it is a little softer it absorbs the vibrations a little
- Pine is easier to work with - I have since started making something else out of a harder wood (as its going out in the garden) and if you try and do routing and curved cuts, it can tend to crack off along the grain...

In summary, it's a workbench, and a lot of the benches I have seen during my interviews/research of jewellers in jewellery shops look like they have gone 12 rounds with a combine harvester... No matter what they have been made of...

Glad that you found some good ideas from my bench.

Make sure you send me some photos of your bench, and I will put them up on here!

Warmly, Marty

2 Tuesday, 11 May 2010 18:04

Marcus

What do you use for cutting on your jewellery bench? The benchpeg or something else?

Love the science fiction art by the way Wink

Wednesday, 12 May 2010 07:36

Martin Dolan

Hey Marcus,
Thanks for the complement.
I have a wood bench peg for working the metal, and just the other day added a metal cutting peg.
It is a piece of 5mm steel, about 5.5 inches long (sorry to mix up the metric and imperial there!) with the typical "V" cut out.
It is attached to the left of the wood bench peg, and can be swivelled out of the way when not in use.
I will grab a photo and upload it in the next day or so...

1 Wednesday, 31 March 2010 12:12

Jenny

I already have a jewellers bench, but I love your idea for the pliers holder. Will have to make one of those ASAP

Thank you for sharing!

Jen Very Happy